A Paris Eating Experience …

Never before have I recommended a Paris, or French, eating place, but there is a first time for everything, as is said, so here goes. Au Chien Qui Fume – The Dog that Smokes, or The Smoking Dog. If you are in Paris and you’ve not yet eaten there, spoil yourself please, and do so. […]

Never before have I recommended a Paris, or French, eating place, but there is a first time for everything, as is said, so here goes.

Au Chien Qui Fume – The Dog that Smokes, or The Smoking Dog.

If you are in Paris and you’ve not yet eaten there, spoil yourself please, and do so. And if you are planning to visit Paris, don’t leave before you’ve had a meal there.

The address is: 33, Rue du Pont Neuf in Paris’s first Arrondissment. Two Metro stations are close to it: Chatelet and Pont Neuf and it is just a stone’s throw from the River Seine.

Have a look

here

The restaurant dates from 1740 when it was the eatery of an inn in a market town named ‘Halles au Roy’ – the King’s Market. Farmers who’d brought their produce to the town used to stay there and eat there. Eventually, the area became Paris’s wholesale market of Les Halles. Les Halles, known as Paris’s stomach, was a place that really never slept; open night and day, it quickly became the capital’s main ‘red light’ district. This – the market and the area’s activities of the flesh – ended 40 years ago when Paris’s city planners moved the wholesale market to south of the capital in Rungis, and raised most of Les Halles to the ground to replace it with the Beaubourg Centre and the Forum Les Halles shopping and cinema complex. The Au Chien Qui Fume’s building was one of those that survived.

The restaurant had changed hands several times since 1740, and it was in 1920 when a new restaurateur took it over that it had become known as Au Chien Qui Fume. Why? He had two dogs – a poodle (yes, the French do really have poodles!) and a terrier, and both smoked. The poodle smoked cigars and the terrier, a pipe. And the Parisians wanting to see this began flocking to the place, and violà, soon all spoke of going to the dog that smokes – au chien qui fume.

The restaurant has several fixed menus as well as an à la carte menu. The least expensive of the fixed menus is the 3-course Le Chien Coquin menu – the little rascal dog menu – at €30.40 ($45/ £28) per person. I won’t give you the full menu, but you will believe that you can fly if you order a bowl of onion soup, said to be the best in Paris, or a rabbit terrine, or sun-dried peppers, or grilled goat’s cheese etc etc. As for the main course, the roasted rabbit with two mustard sauces (one already poured over the rabbit and the other served separately in a small copper pot), or the confit de canard or the … well … all are terrific.

The wine list is also excellent, though the wines are expensive, but this is now how it is in Paris, in fact, all over France, even Europe.

A Burgundy white Chablis costs €48 ($70 / £44) a bottle, a Rosé Sancerre €38 ($56 / £35), and a Saint Estèphe 2003 Bordeaux €53.90 ($80 / £50). But you could also have just a glass of wine at much much less – €4 ($6 /£4).

They start to serve meals at noon and will take orders until midnight. If you are going to walk in between noon and 2pm, or between 7.30pm and 9.30pm, then you better reserve a table. It’s nice though walking in around 2.30pm when the restaurant is no longer crowded.

And last but not least: the waiters are friendly and although this is a restaurant that is not in a tourist area and most of its clientèle are Parisians, the waiters all speak English.

So, I will wish you bon appétit.

And I am not being paid to promote this restaurant; I am doing so because I know
that you will have a great meal at au chien qui fume.

Marilyn Z. Tomlins

2 Responses to “A Paris Eating Experience …”

  1. 2
    Christian Says:

    Very nice! This is a wonderful blog… I had a great time browsing and reading your posts. You may also drop by my site if you have time. It's about christian books , Celebrate recovery and bible study curriculum. I'm sure you'd find my site useful.

  2. 1
    Jo Says:

    I wish I could follow your recommendation Marilyn, sounds wonderful. I am unlikely ever to be in Paris again, malheuresement, having spent a great deal of time in France at one time or another, I have never had a bad meal in France, but this place sounds exceptional.

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